Cafayate: Ravines, Valleys and Mountains

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Day 186 – Friday 24th March 2006

Once our hire car had arrived, we loaded our stuff uop and set off pretty much straight away on our two day, 550km road trip around the Calchaquies Valleys. We were three, myself and and an Israeli couple. Our transport was a VW Gol, equivalent to a Polo in the UK.

Our first destination was Cachi, a small village roughly 170km from Salta along Route 33, a mixture of paved road and dirt track. Although public transport served the area, the service was irregular and inflexible. By driving ourselves we were able to stop at will, taking in the surroundings and snapping away on our cameras.

Shortly after leaving Salta we reached a section of road which passed through the Quebrada (Ravine) de Escoipe. We squeezed through the valley, slowly twisting and turning along the course of a river, before climbing the Cuesta del Obispo (Bishop Slope) for 20km. This section of road climbed a mountain ridge, continuallt switching back and forth though countless hairpin bends. The further and further we climbed, the more of the mountain range became visible. We stopped for photos on numerous occasions, however the best views were saved for last, as once we reached the summt the entire valley opened up, giving a great shot.

There was a stark contrast between the Bishop Slope and the plateau at the summit. The valley, green and lush with vegetation, had hundreds of small brooks coursing through it, whilst the plateau was an arid desert. It was so arid in fact that it had been made into a National Park. Not just any national park, but the National Park of the Cactus. The whole plateau was covered in giant cacti, some of which were 10m tall. Although the two areas were separated by only a few kilometres, they could have been worlds apart.

Within the national park lies the Recta del Tin Tin, a 12km straight line, measured out by natives hundreds of years ago. The line has been turned into the road, and lies 3,000m ASL. We stopped for photos before continuing to the lunch point.

After a decent packed lunch it was only a short drive to Cachi. On arrival the town seemed pretty dead so we carried on driving towards Cafayate where we would be staying overnight. Having long since left paved roads behind it was all dirt track from here on in. As we reached the Quebrada de las Fletchas the sun was setting, which gave everything an added something, as it set over the red sandstone rocks it brought out some completely different colours and another dimension.

It was through this ravine I had my first time behind the wheel since September, and on the wrong side of the road to boot. I didn’t find it too difficult to convert, but one thing that did concern me was a question Adam asked me. The conversation went something like this:

Adam: In England, which foot controls the accelerator and brake, and which controls the clutch?

Roy: Erm, (now trying to think and pressing imaginary peddles) actually, I have no idea. I will ask someone.

Adam: Ok, are you sure you want to drive?

I could not for the life of me remember which foot did what, but it all turned out ok, I didn’t crash! Arriving in Cafayate after dark we found a hostel and had some dinner before retiring for the evening, ready for day two of “The Road Trip”.