DAY 21 – A cold and cloudy start. Zero degrees in the tent. We got up and packed, trying not to get the hands any more frozen than they already were. The cold affected Yami’s spirits and she began to talk about wanting to abandon the tour completely, but I convinced her it was just because she was cold and such drastic measures weren’t necessary, and that things would look a lot better after a cup of hot chocolate.
So before starting the days ride we paid a visit to a coffee shop and warmed up with a Kakao, which brightened the mood. As we drank our Kakao, the sun burned off the morning mist, dissipating the clouds and the all became right with the world once more.
We found the Tauber river path and left Wertheim, riding an undulating path through forest tracks, which came as a shock to the system as we hadn’t faced any hills of note since Day One, back in England. The Tauber river is much smaller than the Main, and we passed through rural areas.
About an hour into the ride Yami informed me her peddle was wobbling, so we took a break and I took it off and reattached it, which fixed the problem.
After leaving the forest area we came to open fields, where there are thousands of apple trees. It was harvest time, and we shared the paths with small vintage tractors, pulling carts laden with apples which would be taken to a factory for juicing and made into apple juice.
We stopped in a local car park to eat a lunch of ham and cheese baguettes, made from ingredients bought from Lidl. I took a wrong turn after lunch which ended up in us riding an extra 8km.
Campsites along the Tauber are not as frequent as along the Main or Rhine, so we made Bad Mergentheim our destination for the day, as this had the first campsite along the route. After the late start and hilly route, it was getting late as we approached the town, only to find out the campsite is located 4km south of the town.
We made a dash to the site to get everything pitched before dark, only to find a virtually deserted campsite on arrival. I had looked on the internet and made sure the site hadn’t closed for the season, but for a while it looked as though the information hadn’t been correct. I eventually tracked down the mullet sporting owners, paid for our pitch and we managed to set everything up and cook dinner just before darkness set in.