The descent took over an hour, but only lasted so long because we stopped frequently to take photos. As we approached the bottom of the descent, we were enveloped in cloud of early morning mist, which hung over the river at the base of the valley, waiting for the sun to rise above the mountains and burn it off.

Although the base of the valley was only 600m above sea level, the mist gave the air a decidedly chilly feel, but we were not complaining as we could begin the next part of the road   a fifteen kilometre climb – in relative cool. As the previous day the climb wasn’t steep, but it just kept going and going! We took a couple of hours to reach a H’Mong village near the summit, where we each downed a bottle of Pepsi while the curious locals stared at the falang in their village. As is the usual, the kids came out and smiled and waved as we passed, but when we stopped in their village for a drink they ran and hid!

With the hardest portion of the day complete, we enjoyed another ten kilometre downhill before stopping for an early lunch, after which we had twenty five kilometres to ride to Luang Prabang, These were mainly flat, with one short sharp uphill with which to contend. The ride from Vientiane to Luang Prabang proved to be tough work, but completely worth it, and it turned out to be a really cool end to the tour. Anyone coming to Laos should ride this section, but in the same direction as us, as the other way the hills looked longer and steeper!

After many difficulties and a lot of blood, sweat and tears, we arrived in Luang Prabang to complete our tour, stopping for a photo and a hug to celebrate riding in excess of 5,000 kilometres over 113 days, from Kuala Lumpur to Luang Prabang, spanning five countries.

For someone who has reminded me on many occasions that “she is not a cyclist”, I am very proud of Yami for sticking with it throughout the tour. Having never even owned a bicycle before setting out on our first tour, her accomplishment is something to be proud of, although in the last few weeks I’m sure she has begun to contemplate that she is actually becoming a cyclist!

Once in Luang Prabang we easily found a guesthouse which set us back 80,000 Kip for a good double room and wandered along the banks of the Mekong and reminisced about all the times we had seen this mighty river on our trip, firstly in Phnom Penh, then the boat ride along the river to  Chau Doc in the Mekong Delta, five days riding in the Delta region of Vietnam, Savannakhet, Thakek, Vientiane and now Luang Prabang.

Kiu Kacham village in the early morning before anyone has begun their day

Can anyone tell me what the 3 aspects to be considered as good are?

Sunrise over the mountains

 

Cooling off from a natural spring

 

Looking back uphill as we rode down

 

a H'Mong village

As we got lower, the mist formed over the river at the bottom of the valley

 

We descended into the mist...

The valley floor.

Another H'Mong village

 

 

 

Looking out over the hills we had just climbed

After cycling 5,000km+ we arrived in LUANG PRABANG, the endpoint of our tour

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DAY 112 – With a big day ahead we got up before sunrise and ate a rice and fried egg breakfast at the guesthouse before setting out around six thirty. Grace left about fifteen minutes before us, saying she preferred not to eat so early in the morning, so we set out alone thinking we would see her again at some point during the day, as we had done the previous day. We sailed downhill for the first three kilometres before the hard work began in the form of a twenty kilometre climb, which would gain us around seven hundred metres in altitude.

Thankfully the gradient remained manageable, with only the occasional short ten per cent grade stretch to contend with, so we managed to maintain a steady pace as we gradually rose through the valley, cycling through numerous H’Mong villages along the way. After an hour or so valley opened up and we could see the road snaking upward towards the top of the first climb high above us. Although it looked a long way off, I actually preferred being able to see the top as I find it frustrating climbing when the road twists and turns with no clue or indication as to when the climb will likely end. I only later realised that we could see the top of the road because of the massive deforestation that has occurred here, with locals chopping down the native trees to use as firewood.

We inched closer and closer, stopping to rest and catch our breath at regular intervals before finally reaching the top of the valley and the restaurant at the summit. We stopped for a banana break, then resumed the climbing towards Phou Khoun. A few kilometres before the town we passed an Englishman on a foldable bike and in town we saw a Korean man on Yami’s dream bike – the Surly Long Haul Trucker. We asked both if they had seen Grace passing, and they both said no, so we imagined something happened with her bike so had taken a lift with a passing truck.

We stopped in town to pick up some sticky rice and pork chops for lunch, which we tucked away for later on. Soon after leaving Phou Khoun we had a great downhill section which lasted for about seven kilometres. Unfortunately, we reached the bottom far too quickly and then had to start climbing again! I had read that the H’Mong always have their villages at the top of the hills, which worked out well as we found a shop at the summit of the second climb, where we stopped to eat our packed lunch at half past ten. By this time we had covered around forty kilometres after four hours riding, a lot slower than on the flat but still good enough to ensure we could complete the seventy kilometres to Kiu Katcham by afternoon.

The road maintained the ups and downs through the rest of the ride, with another quality downhill which took us down to the bottom of a valley, before the road snaked back up to the top of the valley on the other side of the river, giving us a tough five kilometre uphill. From the valley floor the final twenty kilometres into Kiu Kacham were virtually all uphill as well, and by the time we arrived at three in the afternoon we had well and truly tested our legs.

We found a basic guesthouse in the centre of the village for 50,000 Kip (US$7) and spent the afternoon relaxing after a long hard day in the saddle. We didn’t see any sign of Grace in any of the villages, so our suspicions grew that she had taken a lift to Luang Prabang.

The beginning of the climb, still a way to go....

Some of the views

A steep section early on

The views improved the higher we climbed

This time of year is quite hazy due to the slash and burn agriculture

 

We passed man H'Mong villages

They construct their houses between the road and the sheer drops.

Looking back

 

The Korean we passed after the first big climb

 

 

 

 

Our lunch spot

 

I showed this boy the camera and he stood to attention for the photo!!!

This one just stayed cool

 

 

 

Nearly there, high in the mountains. Very tired by the time this photo was taken.

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Whilst not yet entering the mountains proper, the road from Vang Vieng to Namxa Noy undulated and involved a gradual climb for the first 40km, followed by a 3km steep uphill, before falling down again towards Kasi. The gradual uphill was easy riding and we cruised along, covering the 40km in a few hours.

Just before the 3km uphill we passed through a roadside market selling ‘bush meat’, which included some animals I’ve never seen before. I asked to take some photos but I’m not sure if its legal to sell these meats so the lady refused. I took some anyway, but couldn’t get any close ups.

After the problems of the previous day riding I had adjusted the front derailleur on Yami’s bike and it seemed to work a lot more smoothly, which was a relief. The uphill wasn’t too steep and we made it to the top without any problems.

We stopped for lunch just before Kasi, and decided to continue on to Namxa Noy, a small village with some hot springs, located just before a 15km uphill. By continuing to Namxa Noy, we would be able to tackle the long uphill with fresh legs in the cool of the early morning.

The road from Kasi to Namxa Noy involved one steep climb which left us sweating profusely in the early afternoon sun, before s downhill to Namxa Noy and the hot springs at kilometre marker 234, where we took a bungalow for 60,000 Kip (US$8) before having a soak in the springs and relaxing our legs ready for what we anticipated to be one of the hardest days of the entire trip.

Leaving Vang Vieng. Luckily the road weaved a path through these and not over them!

The roadside vendors selling strange animals and bush meat

 

Enjoyable riding with scenery like this

 

 

We were not the first cycle tourists to stay here.....

The hot springs

Our bungalow - 60,000 Kip

We originally intended to use our bikes to explore the region, but leaving town along a rocky dirt road we decided not to risk damaging the bikes unnecessarily, and instead hired a scooter for the first time on the trip. A days rental of a scooter came to 40,000 Kip (US$4.50) if we returned it by 8pm, or 70,000 Kip for 24 hours.

We opted for the 8pm return time and were handed the keys to a Chinese made scooter, on which we rode out of town towards the caves along a rocky dirt road. We were soon convinced we made the right choice in hiring a scooter for the trip as the road condition deteriorated and the day grew warmer. A few kilometres out of town we saw an hand painted sign for some caves, so we turned off the road and rode along a small dirt track for about a kilometre. We reached the end of the track, parked up and walked across a large field towards the limestone cliffs on the other side, following the flags, placed as indicators for the way to the caves.

At a small bridge before the entrance point to the caves stood a local man, collecting a 20,000 Kip entrance fee, which included rental of a head torch. We paid the man, collected our torch and for the next fifteen minutes followed a narrow and steep track which led us upwards towards the cave itself. On arrival we saw a small opening, which led into a large cavern, about the size of a house, full of stalagmites and stalactites. We had the cave to ourselves and spend a while exploring and peering into some of the crevices which led off the main cavern.

After taking some photos of the cave we climbed back down the narrow path and walked to the swimming point, which turned out to be an underground pool of fresh water, in which I had a quick dip.

We walked back to the scooter and rode along to the next cave, a lonely planet recommended spot, which was full of rowdy backpackers, swimming in the pool outside the cave, jumping into the water from a high tree branch, and generally making a lot of noise. We stayed only long enough to see the huge cave and have a quick dip in the pool, before riding the scooter back towards Vang Vieng for a late lunch.

We used the scooter to ride around town before returning it just before dusk, not wanting to ride in the dark, after which we had a few drinks with Grace and an English couple – also on a bike tour. Later in the evening, after all bars had closed, we found ourselves in the only nightclub in Vang Vieng, mixed with some locals and a few late night revellers.

The town has a stunning backdrop

The first cave we visited

 

The underground lagoon

The second and larger cave

Dirt roads

A change of ride

Some locally produced fabrics

 

With stomachs full, we left the restaurant and immediately began a short but steep climb. From this point the road maintained an up and down momentum for the next 45km. All the ups and downs meant we continuously changed gears, which exposed a slight problem in the adjustment of Yami’s front derailleur, which kept throwing the new chain off the largest chainring, and wouldn’t allow her to use the middle chainring without the chain slipping. After a few roadside adjustments it seemed to work better, though not perfectly, forcing the occasional stop to put on the chain again!

We passed a friendly Serbian cyclist on the road who told us what we already knew – we were in for a tough few days riding with a lot of long climbs. This, along with the chain problems gave Yami some doubts about being able to reach Luang Prabang on the bike.

In hotels and guesthouses in Asia there is generally a toothbrush in a small travel kit provided in the room. Being a dentist, Yami had had an idea a while back to start taking these from the rooms and giving them out to poorer folks we see on the road, but we hadn’t stayed in any rooms with these toothbrushes for a while. The guesthouse in Phon Hong had them, so she took them and handed them to a lady with two small kids who we passed on the route. Hopefully they will be put to use.

The up and down ride to Vang Vieng took us through some pretty and varied countryside, leaving behind the paddy fields and entering some small hills, although we wouldn’t hit the larger ones until after Vang Vieng. After passing the reservoir created for yet another dam, the road flattened out and the final twenty kilometres into Vang Vieng passed quickly enough, meaning we arrived in the early afternoon. Being a backpacker haven, there are hundreds of guesthouses, so finding a room wasn’t too difficult, after which we fond lunch in one of the many bars that play reruns of Friends or Family Guy from morning to night.

We wandered around to get a feel for the place, and found a small town situated in an area with many natural attractions and a great setting, overlooking the river and the huge limestone cliffs on the other bank. Once a small village it is now totally overrun by backpackers. The town has recently developed a reputation as a party destination, as well as the tubing, where people would drink a bottle of whisky before floating down the river on an inflated truck inner tube. Unsurprisingly, drunk backpackers were drowning in their droves, so last year the Government shut down the bars along the river, meaning no more drunk tubing! They have also had a crackdown on the late night bars, so nowadays the town is silent by midnight.

With our flight not for another three weeks, and it being our intention to finish the tour in Luang Prabang, only three days ride away, we were in no rush so we decided to take a few days to explore some of the caves in the area, as thus far in Laos we hadn’t visited any.

 

Yami with the Serbian cyclist we met going the other way

Anothr Laos river

The reservoir crated for the hydro project

Dried fish for sale on the roadside

All these stalls selling the exact same thing....dried fish

Passing through another small town on the way to Vang Vieng

 

 

Vang Vieng. See the lone tube in the water

 

This bamboo bridge is rebuilt every year after rainy season has passed.

The view from our balcony

Rickety bamboo bridge, used by scooters!

The early morning ride out of Vientiane, about ten kilomtres along the road on which we had entered the city, saw us pass a city coming alive as day broke. We passed saffron clad monks as they walked the streets, barefoot, giving blessings in exchange for food, and the smell of fresh bread wafted into our nostrils as we rode past baguette vendors lining the road. The morning markets were already in full swing as we passed. Fruits, vegetables, barbecued meats and a number of other foods were available, but we had eaten in the small restaurant opposite the guesthouse before leaving, so we rode by without stopping.

We turned onto Highway 10 and almost immediately left the city behind. Traffic died down and we were soon riding through the usual paddy fields and open countryside. We stopped for a coffee in a small town after about twenty five kilometres, where an English speaking man asked us about our trip and wished us luck as we left.

I had read the road condition of Route 13 was pretty bad, so although a few kilometres longer, Route 10 turned out to be a good choice as we didn’t have to contend with any traffic and the road surface remained asphalt for the entire journey.

About fifty kilometres into the day, we stopped again for coffee. As we drank, a Spanish guy on a bike rode past and stopped for a chat. He told us about a ferry to cross the river, a futher fifteen clicks along the road, which would take us back towards Highway 13. We had a little difficulty finding it but in the end it was straightforward and for 2,000 Kip each (about US$0.25), we crossed the river on a very local ferry, although I don’t think this ferry will be in existence for much longer as a new bridge is currently under construction.

From the ferry, it took us about an hour to reach Phon Hong on the junction of Highway 13, where after a little searching we found a clean guesthouse for 80,000 Kip (US$10.50) on top of a short steep climb. To keep the costs down we shared the room with Grace.

With not much going on in Phon Hong, we rode down the hill to Highway 13 where we sat in the shade of the awning of a small shop, ate some sandwiches and watched the buses and their passengers for a while as they stopped to buy drinks and snacks. In the evening we ate a dinner of rice and eggs. As we ate, an older dishevelled looking French guy rode by on his bike, smoking a cigarette. He asked about a guesthouse and we told him, but he baulked at the price and rode on. We never saw him again so are not sure if found some other guesthouse or pitched his tent somewhere.

The coffee stop town about 15km from Vientiane

Dog on a scooter

Typical view of the countryside

The river crossing, 2,000 Kip

An interested bystander

Scooters crossing the river

The ticket collector, well covered from the sun, Vietnamese style.

Our driver

Moi

Many tourists, especially backpackers, pass through Vientiane without stopping or only stay one night, saying there is nothing to do, but we liked the city. True, there isn’t that much going on, but there is good food, its not too busy and it has a good atmosphere. We spent a few evenings wandering around the road by the Mekong, or sitting and watching the world go by.

We said goodbye to Victor as he flew off to Iran, but Grace remained in Vientiane and we arranged to cycle together over the mountains to Luang Prabang, for what would be the final leg of our South East Asia trip.

After Yami’s chain had snapped climbing a short but steep hill during the last leg of the loop, we didn’t want to take the risk of it happening again during one of the twenty kilometre climbs on the road to Luang Prabang, so we paid a visit to the local bike shop, owned by a French expat, where Yami got a replacement chain and rear cassette. We had thought about selling Yami’s bike at the end of the tour but after buying a complete new rear wheel and now cassette, we have decided to take it back to Australia.

My bike needs some attention too. After all the riding on crappy surfaces there is now play in the headset. I think I need new bearings, but that will have to wait until we get back to Australia. My suspension also needs new elastomers, but as the forks are almost twenty years old, these are not so easy to come by. Again, this is something I’ll have to look at when we get back to Australia.

Saying chao to Victor

Fruit shake shop

Suspenson sits too low now.

The Mekong river

 

 

Patuxai, the Laos equivalent of the Arc de Triomphe

Sitting under the Patuxai monument

Presidential Palace

They had, and we made our way to the Heuan Lao Guesthouse, where we found Victor and Grace and got a double room for a capital-city-inflated-price of 100,000 Kip (US$13).

I celebrated our arrival into Vientiane with a Beerlao, before we ventured out to find food in the city. We had been told that the city was pretty quiet, but I hadn’t expected it to be so quiet. Hardly a car, or even scooter, on the road. A complete change from Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok and Phnom Penh, the other capital cities we have visited on this trip.

Cycling almost 650km in the previous week had caught up with us and we felt very tired, so we spent the rest of the day eating and recuperating, intending to leave sightseeing to the following days. In fact I slept most of the afternoon, only waking in time to go out and find dinner before returning to the guesthouse.

The Thai owner of a shop where we stopped for a Pepsi. He spoke a little English and posed with his young daughter.

Victor packing up his bike in the guesthouse

We left Paksan at sunrise, stopping for breakfast of noodle soup where we watched the monks as they performed their morning walk around town, receiving food in exchange for a blessing.

As per the previous day, it was enjoyable cycling, but nothing much happened. We made good time along Highway 13, stopping every 20km or so for a drink or to shelter from the sun. After about 50km we passed through the town of Tha Bok, where we stopped to refuel with rice and eggs.

We arrived in Ban Naxay about 12pm and briefly considered carrying on to Vientiane, but quickly banished that thought and set about looking for a guesthouse. We passed one on the way into town, but carried on into the centre. The only other guesthouse we could find was very basic so we backtracked to the first one and checked in.

We waited out the heat of the day in the room before walking towards town, passing a couple of small restaurants full with off duty police. We sat down to eat and had a bit of a joke with the police, before heading back to the room for an evening of Breaking Bad.

Early morning procession of monks, asking for food in exchange for blessings

 

Highway 13

Crossing another big river along Highway 13

100km to the capital

Toilet break along Highway 13

Rest stop in a rice hut, escaping the hot sun for a bit

Posing

We rode the 90km to Paksan in good time, reaching the town by 12:30pm. The ride was pleasant enough, along Highway 13 the whole way, although nothing major happened to report. In Paksan, we checked into a good guesthouse for 50,000 Kip and went straight out for lunch to a restaurant on the banks of the river, before trying to find some internet. As in other towns, we only managed to find one computer, in the offices of Lao Telecom. At 15,000 Kip (US$2) per hour, it was very expensive so we just sent an email to our respective families to let them know we were safe.

Too hot to do anything outdoors, we watched a couple of episodes of Breaking Bad in the afternoon before wandering out for food. For a while our prospects looked bleak, but we lucked into a place which served us a delicious noodle salad for 10,000 Kip (US$1.33) per plate.

All in all an enjoyable, productive and successful, but uneventful day.

Flying along

 

Cooking the corn on the cob

Rest stop where we bought and devoured corn on the cob

River views from our lunch spot in Paksan